Bought in 1989 by my customer, these bells have been very well looked after. I was sent a copy of the Premier brochure that contains these studio chimes and have included this below, however the text on the front cover reads as follows:
As every percussionist knows, Premier never do anything by halves. Designs that have been proved by generations of experience. Nothing but the best materials. How much more then, could you expect from Premier’s range of tuned percussion instruments? The cream of Premier’s production. They are quite simply, the best money can buy. Made by perfectionists, for perfectionists. That’s why Premier is first in percussion.
What more is there to be said? These were designed when Premier were at the top, the bells are excellent as is the frame. The tonality is really good, the tuning is good and I have fully serviced the frame only making minor improvements to the damper mechanism.
Along with the rawhide mallet, the instrument has cases. Everything except the uprights goes into the black bag, whilst the uprights have a dust cover that has been purloined from something else.
Cosmetic damage is minimal. The chrome is still in excellent condition, none of the bells are showing signs of fatigue and there is very little damage to the frame. In summary, an excellent set of studio chimes.
This instrument is stored at my workshop which means that viewings can be easily arranged. For viewings or to make an offer send me an
These are the fitting instructions for the replacement motor systems that I produce for Premier 701 or 751 vibraphones.
As you can see from the video I have designed the system so it is easy to fit to your instrument. There is a reason behind every feature of the product which is the result of over a decade of development. Each time I have fitted new motors to Premier vibraphones, modifications have been made to the carriage and the assembly. The result is that I have done pretty much all the work for you, so all you need to do is drill a few holes and use a screwdriver. The picture below shows the tools that I used.
Of course the downside of all these hours spent problem solving is that I expect to be paid for all my work. All of my development costs like this, whatever the instrument, are spread across at least ten customers in order to keep the costs for the individual. I do this because I am not greedy, I have personal ethics, and I like to be fair. So if you are not happy with that and choose to steal my ideas to save yourself a few quid, then may you burn in hell!
The photo above shows the kit. Everything you need, plus a extras, are in the kit. Even the correct sized drill bits (to avoid any mistakes) and a small allen key are included. Three different sized belts so that you can determine the best fit and a long kettle lead.
I fit an IEC C14 socket to the motor and a C15 plug on the lead for versitility – you can use the lead with most electrical music equipment which has a low current draw. Obviously I fit the correct fuse, but the size of the cable will only handle 10 amperes. I make the cable detachable so that you don’t wind the cable around the end of the instrument. This is possibly the most common thing I see with vibraphones and it is bad practice especially if you then go on to pack the instrument down. When combined with the poor earth continuity readings that I find on most mass produced instruments the result is a potential death trap. The problem you face is that most instruments have the cables permanently attached, so as per usual I find myself going in the opposite direction to convention because of what I think are more important reasons than preventing you from losing the cable.
Do a better job than this photo! Keep the ribbon cable flat if possible. Do the cable tie closer to the motor first, then the outer one. The control panel can be orientated so that the cable fits neatly and you only have a little strip showing along the outer edge of the note rail. Either cable tie this section, use gaffa tape or just leave it – this depends on how rough you are when packing the instrument down.
If you don’t need to take off the transom bar, it will be very difficult to drill the holes for the cable ties. For this reason I have included two tie blocks in the kit. They are very sticky, but I would advise removing the resonator pad and giving the metal a good clean and then de-grease with mentholated spirits first, this way they will definitely stick around for the long term! The cable ties thread through both opposing sides of the pad and it would probably be easier to thread them before sticking them down.
The carriage for the Premier 751 is longer because of the hole to allow access for the damper bar adjustment screw. This screw I replace and is included in the pack. Therefore the 751 motor carriage takes longer to make which is why it costs more. For ordering the motor system, send an and include your name and address so that I can send you an invoice.